Hooded Eyes
Each eye type has unique characteristics that determine the most flattering lash design. For example, hooded eye types require a specific curl to enhance their natural shape. The goal with hooded eyes is to conceal the hooded area without causing irritation by ensuring the lashes don’t curl up and touch the eyelid. Choose the right curl and length: CC or M curls work well to cover the hood without touching the eyelid. The lashes should be long enough to cover the hood but short enough not to touch the eyelid.
When mapping for hooded eyes, consider the extent of the hood. If it’s only on the outer corner, a squirrel or natural mapping works well. If the hood covers the entire lid, a doll eye or round style is more suitable. You can also mix curls by using a stronger curl in the most hooded areas and a lighter curl for the rest.
Customization is key. By offering this level of personalized service, you not only enhance your clients’ natural beauty but also stand out as a lash stylist, helping you build a loyal client base and command higher prices.
Best Lash Styles for Small Eye Types
For small eyes, be cautious when applying lash extensions, as excessively long lashes can make the eyes appear smaller. It’s recommended not to use lashes longer than 11mm or 12mm, especially with stronger curls like D curl. To create the illusion of larger eyes, consider using techniques that open or round out the eyes, if the eye shape permits. Stronger curls like CC, D, or M can enhance the eye’s appearance, but be careful with M curl as it already appears longer than regular curls. Always go 1mm shorter with M curl than you would with other curls.
Wide Set Eyes
Wide-set eyes are easy to identify — if the distance between the eyes is greater than the length of one eye, the eyes are considered wide-set. It’s important to style them correctly to avoid making the eyes look even farther apart. Use lash styles that round the eyes and give an opening effect, such as dolly or open styles. A reverse mapping, where the longest lashes are placed on the inner part of the eye, can also help bring the eyes closer together. These lash maps will help you make your client’s eyes seem visually closer to each other. Avoid lengthening styles like cat, fox, or eyeliner, and soft curls like B, C, or L, as these will make the eyes appear farther apart.
Close Set Eyes
For close-set eyes, the goal is to stretch the lash line and elongate the eyes to make them appear further apart. A cat-eye lash map works well for this. Use longer lengths towards the outer corners to visually open up the gap.
Enhancing Upturned Eye Types with the Right Lashes
Upturned eyes have outer corners that face upwards, while the inner corners may droop slightly. A great style for this eye type is a squirrel lash map. Use a soft curl, adding more length towards the outer corners and shorter inners. Use the lash map above.
Downturned Eyes
For downturned eyes, the outer corners of the eyes point downward. To create a more open look and lift the outer corners, use an open-style lash map. If you can’t quite tell, imagine drawing a straight line across the client’s eye. If the outer corners turn down beneath the line, then they have downturned eyes. Use an open style lash map to style that will help take focus away from the down-turned outer corners. Concentrate the length in the area you want to lift or heighten. You can use a stronger curl if the lashes are really straight. Use the lash map above.